Vitamin C

Vitamin C taken orally or applied topically is beneficial for skin

Vitamin C and its derivatives are recommended by dermatologists and skin specialists around the world. It has a host of benefits for the skin from anti-aging to skin brightening. However, some people do and can experience skin irritation with Vitamin C. In addition, it is an unstable ingredient which means it oxidizes when exposed to air, light, and heat.

However, Vitamin C esters and derivatives are more stable and less irritating. So if you come to think about it, there are no excuses why you can’t include this powerful ingredient into your skincare routine. 

Here is a rundown of Vitamin C and its derivatives.

What is Vitamin C

It is an ingredient which is also called ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid. It can be consumed or applied on the skin. 

Benefits of topical application of Vitamin C

• It promotes collagen production, which has the potential to thicken the dermis and diminish fine lines. 
• Vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects skin cells from damaging free radicals.
• Brightens the skin resulting in an even tone
• Improves the appearance of hyperpigmentation by regulating the functioning of melanocytes.
• Reduces redness
• Promotes skin repair and wound healing
• Vitamin C also shields the skin from DNA damage caused by pollution.

Problems with Vitamin C  L-Ascorbic Acid 

Although Vitamin C L-Ascorbic Acid is the most potent in comparison to other forms of Vitamin C, it is unstable and if it is not formulated properly, it will degrade and lose its efficacy. Heat, light and air speeds up the process. Since it works best when formulated at a low PH, less than 3.5, it can cause skin irritation. This can be problematic for skin of color because irritation can lead to hyperpigmentation.  

Studies have shown that a daily application of 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, at a pH of 3.2, increased skin L-Ascorbic Acid levels 20-fold and tissue levels were saturated after 3 days.

If you have skin of color, dry or sensitive skin you should use a concentration of below 10 percent. Determine how your skin responds to lower strengths before trying out higher concentrations. 

Vitamin C Esters or Derivatives

These ingredients are much more stable than L-Ascorbic Acid and better tolerated on all skin types. 

The most popular derivatives are Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. 

They are all antioxidants  that reduces oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals which slows down the aging process and the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

Vitamin C Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) has been shown in studies to improve the appearance of acne-prone skin at a concentration of 5 percent. SAP provides anti-ageing, collagen boosting, antioxidant and skin whitening effects.

When should Vitamin C be applied

It can be applied in the morning or the night. Some people prefer to use active ingredients at night only. 

Things to bear in mind when using Vitamin C

• You should try not to use Vitamin C with benzoyl peroxide in the same skincare routine because this can make it less effective.

Vitamin C and Retinol

There are mixed opinions on this from dermatologists.  Some say they can be used in the same skincare routine while others say they can’t. 

The reasoning for it not to be used together is that ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid needs to be formulated at a low PH for it to perform its best. Retinol on the other hand needs to be formulated at a higher PH. By using the two ingredients together it can cause skin irritation because of the different PH levels. 

However, Vitamin C derivatives such as SAP, work in a high PH, of between 6 and 7. Retinyl palmitate, which is the least irritating form of retinoids can be combined with SAP Vitamin C to form a potent anti aging product. 

https://www.dermastore.co.za/learn/types-of-vitamin-c/#:~:text=Vitamin%20C%20is%20a%20potent,your%20risk%20for%20skin%20cancer.