Chemical exfoliation-all you need to know

Chemical exfoliation can come in the form of serums

Chemical exfoliation sounds scary, I know, but don’t be afraid. Used correctly, it is perfectly safe for skin and makes a huge impact in a skincare routine.

When deciding on what acid to choose, you need to determine your skin type. Is it normal, dry, combination or oily? 

Acids should be compatible with skin type. Another important factor that needs to be taken into consideration is the percentage of the acid in the product. If you are new to acids you should always start with a low percentage so that the skin can build up tolerance to the acid. Aside from chemical exfoliation, there are other forms of exfoliation.

Chemical exfoliation and skin of color

Skin color also matters when it comes to chemical exfoliation. People with skin of color have more reactive melanocytes than Caucasian skin. Melanocytes are responsible for making pigment in the skin. 

These melanocytes are turned on when there is trauma or irritation on the skin. This is why people with skin of color suffer a lot from hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, compared to those with Caucasian skin.

When it comes to chemical exfoliation, the different types of acids have different molecular sizes. Acids with small molecular sizes can cause burns in skin of color because they penetrate deeper into the skin. This can cause burns, inflammation and discoloration.

The most talked about acids

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) 
• Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHA). 

All these acids exfoliate the skin. In addition, they all serve similar purposes. 

AHA’s/BHA’s/PHA’s can:

• Even out your skin tone
• Remove dead skin cells, decrease the appearance of pores, fine lines and wrinkles.
• Decrease inflammation 
• Improve the overall smoothness and texture of the skin.
• Unclog pores

End result: GlOWING skin

All about AHA’s

The most popular AHA’s are lactic, glycolic and mandelic. These acids exfoliate the surface layer of the skin to varying degrees. Glycolic acid is the most powerful in the group and should be used carefully by those with skin of color.

Chemical exfoliation with lactic acid

Lactic acid is commonly derived from milk. In addition to its exfoliation properties it helps improve the skin’s natural moisture factor and hydrates skin. It helps remove old, dull cells which are on the skin’s surface and thus brightens, smooths and evens skin. It also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. Lactic acid possesses larger molecules than glycolic acid which is why it is well tolerated for people with skin of color.

While lactic acid is recommended for all skin types, those with dry and sensitive skin who can’t tolerate other acids, will benefit the most from it.

A good percentage to start with if you are new to acids is 5 percent so that your skin can get used to it. You can then move up to 10 percent for even better results.

Lactic acid is considered safe for skin of color.

Depending on the percentage, it can be used once to three times a week. It can be used at night or in the daytime.

Chemical exfoliation with glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and has the lowest molecular weight. It can help with hyperpigmentation, dullness and leaves skin smooth and glowing. It is not recommended for dry sensitive skin types. 

Those with oily, acne-prone skin will benefit the most from it. 

People with skin of color should tread with caution when using this acid because it can burn the skin. If those with skin of color really do want to try it, then start with a percentage of less than five. It must be remembered though that many people with skin of color do use glycolic acid and experience no problems. Everyone’s skin is different.

Chemical exfoliation with BHA’s 

The most popular BHA is salicylic acid which is a common ingredient in products for acne. It too helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and improve the skin’s overall texture.  Salicylic acid has antibacterial effects. It can penetrate deep into pores to remove oil and unclog it. This type of acid is best suited for those with oily and acne prone skin. It is sold over the counter at 2 percent. Salicylic acid can be drying on the skin and is considered safe for skin of color.

Chemical exfoliation with mandelic acid

It is derived from bitter almonds and is more gentle than lactic acid. Due to its larger molecule size it is largely considered to be safe for all skin tones. It is recommended that you not exceed 10 percent, at home. It has similar benefits as the other acids.

Chemical exfoliation with PHA’s

These include gluconolactone. They are generally great for all skin types. Gluconolactone has the ability to remove the dead cells from the outermost layer of the skin, resulting in a smoother, brighter, complexion.

Takeaways

• Choose an acid compatible with your skin type and color.
• Skin of color should try to avoid glycolic acid and if they want to give it a try, start with small percentages then go up to about 5 percent.
• Do not overuse acids
• Start an acid with a low percentage and then after a few weeks (8 weeks), you can move up to a higher strength.
• Listen to your skin, if you feel it has become too dry or irritated, cut back on exfoliation until your skin is in good health.
• Do not use skincare acids with Vitamin A in the same routine because this could lead to skin irritation.

True life experience with chemical exfoliation

I once purchased a toner with two percent salicylic acid and the next morning I woke up with very dry skin. My skin type is dry,  sensitive and dehydrated. 

If you have dry, sensitive, acne prone skin, and want to use salicylic acid, then look out for a product that also has hydrating ingredients to counter the dryness from salicylic acid, or top up with a hydrating moisturizer. 

Also, when using chemical exfoliation be careful because you might see such fantastic results the next day, that you may want to exfoliate continuously and end up damaging your skin barrier.

https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/chemical-exfoliation

https://www.instyle.com/beauty/chemical-exfoliation