Alpha Arbutin

Alpha Arbutin inhibits tyrosinase — the enzyme that triggers excess melanin after sun exposure, inflammation or skin trauma — helping fade dark marks, uneven tone and post-acne pigmentation. It is a stable, water-soluble active and a gentler, more predictable alternative to hydroquinone for long-term cosmetic use, especially in high-UV climates like South Africa. Its effect on the tyrosinase pathway is documented in published research. It layers cleanly with Niacinamide, Licorice Extract and Tranexamic Acid, making it ideal for building targeted pigmentation serums.

• Usage rate: 1–2% for standard brightening (up to 4% in professional-grade serums)
• Solubility: 100% water-soluble
• pH: keep your formula between 4.9 and 5.5 — it can degrade if the environment is too acidic
• Texture: a crystalline powder with a lightweight, non-greasy finish; layers well under a high-SPF sunscreen

Prefer a ready-made, pre-stabilised formula? Alpha Arbutin is built into our clinical serum range:

• Pigmentation Night Serum — targeted facial brightening, with Kojic Dipalmitate, stable Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate), Niacinamide and Licorice Root Extract.
• Melanin Breaker — for advanced, stubborn melasma, using Tranexamic Acid, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), Kojic Dipalmitate and THD Ascorbate.
• Body Brightener — total-body brightening with Tranexamic Acid, Glutathione and Kojic Dipalmitate.

Building your own? Start with our DIY Serums for Pigmentation & Brightening guide, or the DIY Skincare Ingredients Serum Starter Pack.

Alpha Arbutin is a gold-standard brightening ingredient — but a formula alone cannot fix what you don't understand. If you are struggling with stubborn hyperpigmentation, melasma or chubaba, the problem often isn't your ingredients; it's how and when you are using them. Read: Why is my Melasma or Dark Spots getting Darker?

Want the complete, pre-tested formulation — exact phases, percentages, pH targets and stabilisation method? It's laid out step by step in our DIY Serums for Pigmentation & Brightening guide: the professional method, without the guesswork.

How much Alpha Arbutin should I use in a serum?
1–2% for standard brightening, and up to 4% in professional-grade serums.

What pH does Alpha Arbutin need?
Keep your formula between 4.9 and 5.5. It can degrade and lose efficacy if the environment is too acidic.

Is Alpha Arbutin safer than hydroquinone?
It is a more stable derivative and is considered gentler for long-term cosmetic use, particularly in high-UV climates.

What does Alpha Arbutin combine well with?
It layers cleanly with Niacinamide, Licorice Extract, Tranexamic Acid and Vitamin C for multi-active brightening.

Is Alpha Arbutin water- or oil-soluble?
It is 100% water-soluble.