Retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A, are known for their ability to promote cell turnover and reduce fine lines and wrinkles—so what do retinoids do? They improve skin texture, treat acne, fade hyperpigmentation, and even out skin tone. By stimulating collagen production, they are effective in anti-aging products and treatments.
Retinoids are arguably the most researched anti-aging ingredients in the world. They are used to treat a wide range of skin problems, including acne, aging skin, and pigmentation. Retinoids are an umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives.
Retinoid Graph
At the top of the retinoid hierarchy is retinoic acid. Forms include Tretinoin, found in Retin-A; Isotretinoin, found in Accutane; Adapalene, found in Differin; and Tazarotene, found in Tazorac. These are prescription strengths due to their potency and potential side effects. Retinoic acid binds to retinoid receptors in our skin, speeding up the cellular turnover rate.
Then there is granactive retinoid, known as the next-generation retinoid. It is a trademarked cosmetic ingredient known for its anti-aging and skin renewal properties. It is a complex of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. This retinoid is newer and does not need to be converted to retinoic acid in the skin, which is why it’s so effective. Granactive retinoid is much less irritating than tretinoin and doesn’t require a prescription. It is for these reasons we have used it in our Anti- Aging Retinoid Firming Cream and in our Men’s Night Cream.
The rest of the retinoids require conversion in the skin.
Retinal or retinaldehyde is the next form, just one conversion step from retinoic acid, and it is also not irritating to the skin.
Then there’s retinol, which is widely used in skincare formulations, partly because it is much cheaper than retinal and granactive retinoid. However, retinol can cause skin irritation and is an unstable ingredient to work with. To combat the irritating effects of retinol, skincare formulators, like me, are opting for encapsulated retinol because it can help reduce irritation and its more stable to work with. It can also be found in our Anti- Aging Retinoid Firming Cream and in our Men’s Night Cream and also Melasma Serum.
The encapsulation process involves wrapping the retinol molecules in a protective coating, which helps release the active ingredient gradually and more gently onto the skin. This controlled release can potentially reduce the likelihood of irritation while still delivering the beneficial effects of retinol.
Then there is retinyl esters, the mildest form of retinol. It is also not very irritating. It can be found in our Anti- Aging Retinoid Firming Cream and Men’s Night Cream. It can also be found in our Acne Night Gel and Radiance Night Cream.
What do the different retinoids do?
The difference between the different types of retinoids lies in their potency, effectiveness, and how they interact with the skin. Retinoic acid is potent and delivers quicker results in terms of reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and acne, but they can also cause initial skin irritation. On the other end of the spectrum, retinyl palmitate, a milder form, takes longer to show visible results but is less likely to irritate sensitive skin.
Understanding the differences helps in choosing the right retinoid based on individual skin tolerance and desired outcomes. Gradual introduction into skincare routines is crucial to mitigate potential irritation, allowing you to reap the long-term benefits such as improved skin texture, minimized signs of aging, and reduced acne breakouts.
Choosing the right type of retinoid depends on your skin type and its tolerance levels—there’s a suitable option for everyone. For individuals with skin of color, minimizing irritation is crucial to avoid triggering hyperpigmentation. Preferred options include granactive retinoid, encapsulated retinol, retinal, and retinyl esters, known for their gentler effects. It’s essential to start with the lowest strength, typically 0.1%, and gradually increase based on your skin’s response. Some may only tolerate retinoids a few times a week, even at lower strengths, which is perfectly fine. Higher-strength retinoids carry a greater risk of irritation, potentially exacerbating pigmentation issues in skin of color.
Frequently asked Questions
Can I Use Hyaluronic Acid with Retinoids?
Yes, you can certainly use hyaluronic acid alongside retinol. Hyaluronic acid is a hydrating ingredient that helps to replenish moisture in the skin, while retinol addresses signs of aging. Apply a hyaluronic acid serum before applying your retinoids to help counteract any dryness that it may cause.
Can I Use Retinoids and Vitamin C Together?
If retinoids and vitamin C are formulated together in the same skincare product, it’s generally safe to use them together as directed. Skincare products that combine these ingredients are often formulated with stability and compatibility in mind. Using both retinoids and vitamin C in different skincare products together at night is generally not recommended due to potential interactions that can reduce effectiveness or cause irritation.
Furthermore, using several potent ingredients together can increase skin sensitivity, leading to dryness, redness, or irritation. These adverse effects can be exacerbated when both ingredients are applied simultaneously, compromising the skin’s barrier function and causing discomfort.
In terms of skincare benefits, vitamin C is best used during the day to protect the skin from environmental damage, boost collagen production, and promote a brighter complexion. On the other hand, retinoids are typically recommended for nighttime use to enhance cellular turnover, stimulate collagen synthesis, and promote skin renewal and repair processes while you sleep.
If you are intent on incorporating both retinoids and vitamin C into your skincare routine, it is safest to apply them at separate times of day. Consider applying vitamin C in the morning and retinoids at night to ensure they do not overlap and interfere with each other’s efficacy. This approach allows you to harness the full benefits of each ingredient without compromising their effectiveness or risking unnecessary irritation to your skin. Always monitor your skin’s response and adjust usage accordingly to maintain optimal skin health and comfort.
Can You Use Niacinamide with Retinoids?
Yes, niacinamide is another compatible ingredient with retinol. Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, offers multiple benefits such as improving skin texture, reducing inflammation, and enhancing the skin’s barrier function. Incorporate niacinamide into your skincare routine either in the morning or evening alongside retinol for optimal results.
Can You Use Retinoids with AHAs, PHAs, BHAs?
Using retinol (or other retinoids) simultaneously with AHAs, PHAs, or BHAs in the same skincare routine can be challenging due to the potential for increased skin sensitivity and irritation. The best way to use AHAs PHAs and BHAs and retinoids is using them on different nights. That said it’s possible to use retinol with AHAs, PHAs, or BHAs in your skincare routine, however, it’s essential to proceed cautiously and monitor how your skin reacts.
How to use a retinol serum or cream
Using a retinol serum or cream requires a thoughtful approach to maximize its benefits while minimizing potential irritation. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to use a retinol product effectively:
- If you’re new to retinoids, begin by using it 2-3 times a week, preferably at night. This allows your skin to acclimate to the retinol gradually.
- Start with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup from your face. Pat your skin dry with a clean towel.
- If you are completely new to retinoids try the sandwiching technique. Apply moisturiser first. Allow this to dry completely.
- Then dispense a pea-sized amount of retinoid serum or cream onto your fingertips. This small amount is typically enough to cover your entire face.
- Gently dot the retinol on your forehead, cheeks, chin, and nose. Avoid the delicate skin around your eyes unless the product is specifically formulated for the eye area.
- Spread the retinol evenly across your face. Avoid rubbing or tugging at your skin.
- Let the retinol absorb into your skin for a few minutes. This allows it to penetrate effectively without interference from other skincare products.
- Follow up with a moisturizer to help hydrate and soothe your skin. This step is crucial as retinoids can sometimes cause dryness or irritation.
- Since retinoids can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every morning. This helps protect your skin from sun damage and premature aging.
- As your skin becomes more accustomed to retinol, gradually increase its use to every other night, and eventually nightly if tolerated well. This gradual approach helps minimize potential irritation.
- Results from retinol can take time to become noticeable, typically from between six to eight weeks. Consistency is key to seeing improvements in skin texture, tone, and fine lines.
